что выбрать из 25 Toshiba 25cjz5sr или Sony KV-SW2

[quote]ИМХО 25-ый тринитрон ПРИНЦИПИАЛЬНО лучше "тошибовского не-тринитрона".

А вчем конкретно он лучше? На этом форуме конкретно обос...ли эту соньку в сравнении с тошибой.Но тошиба раздражает дебильным  пультом.Поэтому рассматриваю новую соньку KV-SW25M91. Что о ней можете сказать и что это за интеллектуальная система изображения там применена?

|в Вашей Соньке при смене яркости в кадре (а это постоянный процесс), растр скачет как сумашедший !!!

Ну это вы зря, в соньке всегда была неплохая(можно сказать хорошая) стабилизация размера и кадр скакать, как сумашедший, там не может если это не неисправность конечно.  

Кстати, вот ссылка на FAQ:
http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/crtfaq.htm

По поводу "дышания" позволю себе привести выдежки из FAQ:

http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/deflfaq.htm

Breathing Compensation
Breathing is a change in picture size caused by a variation of the EHT voltage due to varying beam current loading. The EHT has a typical output impedance of (approx.) 1 M Ohm. Average beam current varies between 0 and 2 mA, so the voltage drops by 2 kV (from 30 kV), or worse. At lower EHT, the electron beam is easier to deflect, so the picture size will increase.
Brighter picture -> higher beam current -> lower EHT -> larger picture. That's the law of physics.

The breathing can be compensated by decreasing the deflection current amplitude as a function of the beam current. A voltage called "EHT-info" is generated from the beam current as delivered by the line transformer. This is fed to the deflection circuit for feed-forward correction. For horizontal deflection this means feeding it to the East-West modulator.

And here's the catch for you Americans: many USA sets don't have an East-West modulator! Most picture tubes (for the USA) with 90 or 100 degrees deflection don't need (much) pin-cushion correction, so there is no fundamental need for the East-West modulator and so there is also no correction possibility for the anti-breathing. There are other options for corrections, like creating a deliberate higher output impedance for the V+ deflection supply etc., but these are passive measures which will lack accuracy.

Sets with 110 degrees deflection angle (common in Europe) will need active East-West correction and should also perform adequate anti-breathing. Although that is still difficult enough, I should know...

The LD/DVD "Video Essentials" contains test pictures to check your breathing performance. It advises you a simple counter- measure: reduce the beam current by lowering the contrast setting ! This will also improve the sharpness (less spot blooming) and increase the lifetime of the picture tube (less burn-in of the phosphors). But you need to darken the room because the picture will obviously be much darker... (http://www.videoessentials.com/)

http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/whole/F_tvfaq.html

10.17) Blooming or breathing problems


There are several symptoms that are basically similar:

* Blooming is defined as an expansion of the raster or horizontal sections of
 the raster with bright material.  For example, switching between dark and
 light picture causes the size of the picture to expand by 10%.  A slight
 change in size is unavoidable but if it is greater than 1 or 2 percent from
 a totally black image to a full white one, this is either an indication of a
 defective TV or one that is badly designed.  The cause is poor low or high
 voltage regulation.

 Check the B+ to the horizontal deflection.  This is usually well regulated.
 If it is varying in sympathy to the size changes, trace back to determine
 why the low voltage regulator is not doing its job.  The reason for the size
 change is that the high voltage is dropping and reducing the stiffness of
 the electron beam.

* Expansion of the raster width in areas of bright imagery is an indication
 of short term regulation problems.  The video drive may be interacting
 with the other power supplies.  Check for ripple - this would be
 at the vertical scan rate - in the various regulated power supplies.
 The cause may be a dried up electrolytic capacitor - once you locate the
 offending voltage, test or substitute capacitors in that supply.

In both these cases, if this just started after some work was done to the TV,
the brightness limiter and/or video drive may simply be set so high that the
TV cannot supply enough current to the high voltage.  If the brightness
is acceptable with these turned down slightly and still have acceptable
brightness, then there may be nothing wrong.

* Breathing is defined as a periodic change in the size of the raster which
 may be independent of what is displayed or its severity or frequency may
 be related to the brightness or darkness of the image.  This is another type
 of regulation problem and may be caused by bad electrolytic capacitors or
 other components in the low voltage power supplies.

 If the TV uses a switchmode power supply or low voltage regulator separate
 from the horizontal deflection, first check its output(s) for a variation in
 voltage at the breathing rate.  Test with a light bulb or resistor load to
 confirm that the problem is here and not the deflection or other subsystem
 of the TV.

* A condition with somewhat similar symptoms is bad focus - fuzzy picture - but
 only with bright (high beam current) scen
es.  This could be just a matter of
 adjusting the focus control but may also indicate sub-optimal filament
 voltage due to bad connections or components in the filament circuit, or a
 tired worn CRT.  You won't get high beam current without some serious spot
 blooming (a fat beam because too much cathode area is used) and you will get
 cathode 'poisoning' after prolonged use.

 Visually inspect the neck of the CRT for the normal orange glow of the
 filaments and check for bad connections and bad parts.

Посмотрите в Сети -поймёте чем лучше тринитрон.
На форуме есть только 1 телевизор, на букву Ф и борьбе с этим божеством посвящено полтыщи постов.Я сменил штук 7 ТВ, когда-то сам вылавливал мух на радугах/тошибах и был удивлён отсутствием артефактов в данной модели (ладно-в моём экземпляре), которую, кстти купил не глядя.

Пока агрегат привыкал к магнитной обстановке я постоянно наблюдал чистоту цвета в углах, и смею заверить - мульки каналов стоят на месте как влитые при любом содержании чёрного или яркобелого в кадре (ЯРКО-БЕЛОГО!!! и их резкой смене в рекламе особенно, а тесты с видеокарты я не стал запускать -нечего твиковать-то - чай не филипс... Через сервисменю только центровочку на 2-3 мм поднял и всё...
Спорить не буду, модель 2001 года, мой экземпляр ноябрь 2004, может были внесены изменения в стабилизатор растра


 ИМХО трудно найти зрителя с интеллектом ниже, чем у процессора телевизора:-)
Не люблю подобных улучшайзеров...

И вообще, если б в подвалах дилера завалялась не FX-30, а нулячая FX-20  2000года -я б наверное ту радостно купил. Всё же себестоимость продолжает снижаться в ущерб долговечности, семимильными шагами.

Кстати, у в спальне Тошиба 1435 потеряла цвета за 7 лет почти полностью (весьма равномерно, что интересно), а древняя Сони ни на йоту не изменила цветность за этот же период...