Marantz CD63

Блин , при цене вопроса в 60 баксов вам Александр давно надо этот сидюк купить и сравнить дома непосредственно с имеющимся Люксамоном .
А вдруг окажется лучше чем  DX-103 ?
там все сами узнаете и нам напишите что к чему .

Потом за теже бабки можно перепродать , если что.

Кал, не стоящий внимания.
Ещё хуже.

Кстати, вот и Майк появился - у кого спросить про голову к D103.

Насколько я помню,Над 501,это СДМ12 плюс стандартный комплект с цапом ТДА1541.
Возможно будет похож на Ваш Люксман.
Правда 501 сто лет уже,механизм возможно под замену,правда он достаточно доступен.

Взял я сабж домой послушать. Впечатления о звуке - аховые. Во первых - бубнит, во вторых - звук как из бочки, в третьих - неприятно слушать. Хотя, при этом, звук не "зажат", и кое-где даже гармоничен.
Я думаю, что проблема здесь в операционном усилитетеле, потому как видно, что хороший звук наружу таки пытается пробиться. Там есть возможность регулировать уровень выходного сигнала пультом, через микросхему, а по моему опыту такое звуку даром не проходит. Лучщше бы обычный резистор поставили? (:

Но, учитывая то, что существует две промышленно "твикнутые" версии этого дивайса, лучшие из которых зашкаливают за 1000 баксов, возможно проблема устраняется с оверклокингом и сменой операционника.

Вот, я тут накопал немного на эту тему:

A DIVA modified Marantz CD63 was all that we used to achieve "Best Sound" at the Consumer Electronics Show / The Home Entertainment Show (CES / THE SHOW). The same CD player can be found in some of the best-sounding hifi set-ups in Singapore homes.
It is not that the source component is not important. In fact, it is very important. The reason why we choose such a "humble" and inexensive CD player is that it sounds great.

Full details of the CD modification are, of course, Lim's trade secrets. However, they include:

IEC socket to replace the stock power cord.
This, on its own, will not improve the sound. But it allows the user to use good quality power cords that can improve the sound significantly. We recommend a DIVA Mongoose power cord which is inexpensive and great sounding. Please see "DIVA cables and power cords".
RCA sockets changed.
The same high-quality RCA sockets used in all DIVA preamplifiers and power amplifiers are used. They provide very good contact to bring out plenty of inner details.
Power circuitry improved.
Op amp changed.
Some capacitors and resistors changed.
Line filter added
This is a new modification introduced in January 2002.

Я так понимаю, что определяющее здесь смена операционника и реклокинг.

Насчёт оверклокинга я нашёл достаточно простую рекомендацию, как исправить дивайс:

Reclocking!
Ready for more radical tweaks (reclocking!)? Read on! (the following courtesy by Martin Clarke of http://www.acoustica.org.uk

Having spent far too long playing with my CD transport I finally did something useful - so here it is for all you inveterate tweakers. For my money this is the best 1/2 an hour you can spend meddling with the insides of the Marantz CD63.

Recipe:

1no. cd63/63SE, maybe CD67 also...
1no. NPC SM5872B DAC datasheet, available from ftp://ftp.npc.co.jp//pub/pdf_e/nc9242ae.pdf
1no. 0.1uF or greater Stacked foil polystyrene cap (must be less than 1/8" thick)
1/2" plain copper wire
Sharp knife, steady hand, soldering iron
Willingness to pull the logic board and solder to surface mount devices.

The clock in the '63 is a simple Pierce oscillator implemented directly on the DAC chip using a purpose-built logic gate. The relevant components are the DAC, CD02, CD03 and the 16.9MHz crystal, XD01.
Whilst obviously a product of mass-production in its execution, having the clock built into the DAC is potentially ideal; but the clock in the 63 out of the box is pretty jittery, and those who've tried reclocking devices report tremendous gains, as you might expect after spending all that money.....

After *much* hacking about with my old 63SE I think I've found a good reason why. Go read the datasheet at this point and come back here afterward.

The crystal is connected across one end of the DAC chip, between pins 1 and 28. The 30pf (I think) caps CD02 & CD03 tie both sides of the crystal to the ground plane via a PCB trace, basically forming a series resonant circuit when excited by the logic gate (between pins 1 and 28 internally) through RD02 *which you should not modify*.
The logic gate on chip even has separate digital supply and ground pins for to decouple power supply noise, pin 2 is digital ground and pin 27 the logic gate +5v supply.
Pin 27 is fed through RD01 and decoupled by CD04 (electrolytic) and CD05 (tiny axial ceramic). So far, potentially outstanding.
The problem is that, as laid out on the board, the decoupling is ineffective - too much trace inductance renders CD05 & 05 ineffective - *and* the logic gate ground interferes with the oscillator!!! Pin 2 (logic ground) is connected to the ground plane from the _far_ side of CD02 & CD03, so every time the logic gate changes state, the voltage change across the trace inductance will directly modulate the series resonant circuit, because CD02 and CD03 are no longer at quite the same potential. ... no wonder there's so much chaos in there.....

The cure is simple. We place a very low inductance capacitor - stacked foil poly types work for me, ceramics are another good option - directly across pins 2 and 27, as tight to the chip as possible. You need the lead lengths under 2mm for the cap to remain effective into the RF range.
The DAC is a surface mount device, so the best way to achieve this is to pre-bend the leads until the cap just fits across the DAC pins and clip them until the cap. sits tight against the top of the chip - when the board is reinstalled, you'll only have about 1/8" clearance from the case for this cap to fit into!
Now pre-tin the cap leads with solder off board, then holding the cap in place, when you're sure you're in the right place, momentarily touch the cap leads with your soldering iron and the cap will be soldered in place.

Now we get rid of the ground bounce problem. Locate the ground trace from Pin 2 and follow back around to the ground plane under the DAC. Take out the scalpel and carefully cut the trace between pin 2 and CD02 solder pad, as close to CD02 as you dare, and again as close to Pin 2 as you can.
We're isolating the trace -soon to be redundant- so it doesn't form an aerial....peel it off the board if you can!
Having cut the trace out, take your 1/2" piece of wire and solder one end to the ground plane where CD05 connects from above and the other to the lead on your new cap at pin 2 - make sure you don't short pin 1!

If you've followed Bobwire and Thorsten's tweaks here on TNT-Audio, then you've probably swapped RD01 for a small axial inductor and a couple of ferrite beads already, and increased CD04. If you haven't, then do it now.

That's all there is to it - once you've got the board out and can trace the circuit this really is *a lot* easier than it sounds - when inspiration struck it took me just 20minutes to do this tweak (but then it took two years for the inspiration to strike!). To my ears the gains have been terrific, esp. the vastly improved P.R.A.T., but bass freaks will be pleasantly surprised also....it is a change of greater magnitude than Bobwire's internal coax swaps.

Incidentally I think the "ground bounce" issue is why "superclock" upgrades work so well. If an external clock is used, the signal is fed into XTO (pin 28) and CD02, CD03 and XD01 are removed. Which means the internal logic gate is still used on the DAC, but it now has the ground trace to itself and so cannot modulate the oscillator operating conditions.
Those with a clock upgrade still might like to try the additional cap though.....maybe someone with access to an oscilloscope could have a poke around and see what's really happening!

Звучит достаточно просто. Во всяком случае относительно доступно.

Но вот смена операционника - это уже мне кажется более специфическая операция.

Народ, кто может посоветовать, сложно ли там кустарю-специалисту поменять операционник, и если это возможно, то каой чип бы посоветовали?

Мне нужно до воскресенья решить, станул ли я с ним связываться и твикать (не сам, конечно, но есть, вроде, к кому обратиться), или плюнуть, вернуть обратно?

Так-то он совершенно новый, явно с витрины сняли где-то в европе. И пульт при нём.